13 October 2012

Fall Fare

Gardening season is approaching its end, but the show is not over yet.  First, the nightshades perform their final encore. Then the squash, kale, and brussels sprout steal the limelight.  It's easy to think about the garden in the warm summer months, but the cool months provide an exciting bounty as well. 

My eggplant were the first, along with the melons, to stop producing due to frost.  I stashed several in the refrigerator to keep for a ceremonial eggplant parm dinner marking the end of the season, but I wasn't feelin' it.  Even with a fresh batch of ricotta in the fridge and tomatoes for a quick sauce, they seemed to be calling for something different, something new.  These eggplant were uppity and wanted nothing short of novel excellence that came in the form of the remaining untried recipe from My Calabria, Pollo con Melanzane, or Braised Chicken with Eggplant, Tomatoes, and Pancetta.  It's beyond me how this recipe made it so long unexercised, but with a new cobalt Dutch oven barely cool from my coq au vin adventure, eggplant practically pleading for a sublime sendoff, and a freezer full of chicken, it was time to put my faith yet again in Rosetta Costantino's southern Italian brilliance.  The recipe is listed below and it is fantastic. 

My tomatoes, despite several frosts, are still producing.  Each time it gets cold I think they're done.  Then, I go outside and sure enough, there are ripe tomatoes that I couldn't possibly leave on the frostbitten and withered vines.  We've had our share of roasted tomato bruschetta and sandwiches.  With plenty canned and in the freezer, I retreated to my tomato archives to see what I could make that had an autumnal flair as tomato-basil season is long gone. Marcella Hazan's Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter perfectly fit the cozy autumn profile, and given the reviews, one would think this was the king of tomato sauces.  And it's good, very good--homey, with a delicate nuanced flavor.  Its fragrance alone is reason enough to try it.  It's a lovely October meal, but no, it is not the king of tomato sauces.  It's very 'sitting next to the campfire in a cable-knit sweater admiring the New England foliage while sipping a non-alcoholic cider'.  If a sauce could have sociopolitical leanings, this sauce is definitely a WASP.  It's the Martha Stewart of sauces, which is classic, and nice.  I greatly admire and respect Martha Stewart, I'm just cut from a different and more leopard-print cloth. 

With the next batch of tomatoes, I made Rigatoni with Braised Lamb Ragu.  Now that's far more leopard print than cable-knit.  My house smelled like Greektown.   Opa!  Short of the saganaki and cold table wine, it was pretty close to a trip to Jackson and Halsted.  I've listed the recipe at the bottom of the post.  See, there's a tomato recipe for everyone:  for protestants and vegetarians, the Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter (sorry vegans, you have stumbled upon the wrooooong site); and for catholics or those that don't require higher than an SPF 15, Rigatoni with Braised Lamb Ragu.  These rules aren't hard and fast--feel free to try them both. 

The above recipes are fairly quick to assemble.  The following takes more time, but is absolutely worth it.  Lasagna with Squash and Kale is adapted from this recipe from this month's Bon Appetit.  The recipe can be followed exactly as written except for the substitution of kale for broccoli rabe.  If you are buying ingredients from the store or can find broccoli rabe at the farmer's market, by all means try the recipe as is.  My adaptation is based on the vegetables in my garden, not taste preference.  I learned several things from this recipe: 1.  Squash and kale make a quintessential fall dish in both flavor and color.  2.  Lasagna needs not fatty meat to be delicious.  3.  Bechamel should be included in every recipe.  Trust me, this is a recipe to keep in your archives.

Another simpler kale recipe is Kale, White Bean, and Sausage Soup.  I grew up with a similar dish, sausage with escarole and beans, so I've made many variation on this theme, but never according to a specific recipe.  Now seemed like as good a time as any to crack open The Tuscan Sun Cookbook from Frances and Edward Mayes.  This is a very straight-forward version of the dish, easy enough for a weeknight meal, but refined enough for a first course with company.  It is perfect for a cold autumn night when only the kale is left standing in the garden.

Now I'd  like to talk about brussels sprouts.  Please don't make that face.  I tend to take brussels sprouts insults personally.  It's just about my favorite vegetable (do not let the eggplant hear that!).  If you don't like them you probably haven't had them prepared in a way that really suits their character (or you're just a jerk).  True brussels sprouts-lovers can enjoy them boiled, but anyone else must have a roasted or sauteed version.  These methods caramelize the natural sugars and create a mesmerizing crucifer. 

My go-to preparation is to trim and halve or quarter each sprout, toss with olive oil and sea salt, and roast at 350 until they have brown and crispy edges.  I could eat a platter of these on my own.  If you want to make a great side dish, add some crispy pancetta/bacon or caramelized onion.  Divine.  This week I prepared them according to the standard roasting method, but cut them finely, into almost a hash.  This creates even more crispy bits.  Rather than just eating them as a side though, they became the main entree on a pizza crust and topped with fresh mozzarella and lots of shaved parmigiano.  This may be my favorite fall pizza--there is a hierarchy of favorites depending on season and location.

We also had braised brussels sprouts.  I will admit, this may not be the recipe to initiate one's self into the world of brussels sprouts.  However, if you are already a resident, please try Cream Braised Brussels Sprouts.  They are silky, rich, and delicious.  For more recipes and, follow my pinboards on Pinterest.

Now if you're into the fall pizza idea, try Pizza with Squash and Sage.  If your sage plants are crazy prolific like mine, this is a great use of the herb.  Squash and sage compliment each other so well.  This pizza is a great lunch or appetizer.   If you want to make more of a meal of it, add some grilled Italian sausage, a great addition to that particular combo.


The days of garden-fresh produce are numbered.  There is a curtain call or two left for most fall vegetables, and the dates of the kale show may be extended depending on when we get our hard freeze.  Enjoy the garden show now.  When it's over, we'll just have frozen and canned vegetable reruns until spring.

Pollo con Melanzane
Braised Chicken with Eggplant, Tomatoes, and Pancetta
from My Calabria, Rosetta Costantino
1 lb globe eggplants or slender Italian eggplants
Kosher salt
olive oil for frying
8 bone-in chicken thighs
freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 oz pancetta, chopped
3 garlic cloves, halved
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups peeled, seeded, and diced ripe tomatoes
1 small fresh hot pepper, such as cayenne of Thai, halved
3 Tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
Cut the eggplants into large chunks, about 1 inch thick and 2 inches long.  If they are too small,  they will fall apart when cooked.
Sprinkle the eggplant all over with 1 tsp kosher salt.  Heat enough olive oil in a 10-inch skillet to come 1/2 inch up the side of the pan, about 2 cups oil.
Pat the eggplant dry with paper towels.  When the oil is hot enough to sizzle the edge of a piece of eggplant, fry the eggplant in batches until golden all over, 2 1/2 to 3 minutes total.  Don not crowd the pan.  With a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked eggplant to a plate lined with paper towels.
Season the chicken thighs all over with 2 tsp salt and several grinds of black pepper.  Heat a 12-inch skillet or Dutch oven over high heat.  Add the extra virgin olive oil, the pancetta, and the garlic and saute until the garlic is golden, about 1 minute.  Add the chicken thighs skin side down.  Saute without moving them until the skin side is browned and releases easily from the pan, about 5 minutes.
Transfer the chicken with tongs to a plate and pour off the accumulated fat, leaving the garlic and pancetta in the pan.  Return the chicken to the pan and add the wine.  Simmer until all the wine has evaporated.
Add the tomatoes and hot pepper.  Taste and add more salt if desired.  Simmer steadily, uncovered, until the chicken thighs are fully cooked (their juices will be clear, not pink) and the tomatoes have collapsed into a sauce,  about 10 minutes.  Add the fried eggplant and stir gently to coat the eggplant pieces with sauce without breaking them up.  Continue simmering until the tomato sauce is reduced to a glaze, about 2 minutes.  Stir in the parsley and serve.

Redneck Paisana note: if using an entire chicken in pieces, be careful note to overcook the breasts.

Rigatoni with Braised Lamb Ragu
olive oil for frying
flour for dredging
1 lb boneless lamb pieces for stewing
fresh rosemary spring, leaves removed and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup dry white wine
3 cups tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped
Preheat oven to 350.  Pat lamb pieces dry, salt and pepper, dredge in flour.  Heat oil in a Dutch oven (out enough oil in Dutch oven that it come 1/4 inch up the sides).  Fry lamb in batches until nicely brown.  Transfer browned lamb to paper towel lined plate.  Fry garlic until golden.  De glaze Dutch oven with white wine.  Use a wooden spoon to work the browned bits on the bottom of the pan into the wine.  Add tomatoes and rosemary, bring to a boil.  Taste for salt.  Add lamb pieces, cover Dutch oven and bake in oven for 1hr 45 minutes to 2 hrs or until lamb pieces are very tender and falling apart.  Serve over rigatoni.
Kale, White Bean, and Sausage Soup
from The Tuscan Sun Cookbook, Frances Mayes and Edward Mayes
Serves 12
2 Italian Sausages , casings removed
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 yellow onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 quarts chicken stock
1 cup white wine
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 tsp dried
1 bunch kale, stalks included, washed and chopped
1/2 tsp salt, plus additional to taste
1/2 tsp pepper
4 cups cooked cannellini beans
In a stockpot over medium heat, brown the sausages in 2 tbsp of the olive oil, breaking them up with a wooden spoon.  Remove to a bowl.  Add the remaining 2 tbsp olive oil with the onion and garlic, and cook on medium-low heat until translucent.  Add the chicken stock and wine, and raise the heat to medium for 15 minutes.  Stir in the thyme, kale, salt, and pepper.  Bring to a boil.  Cover and lower the heat to simmer for 15 minutes.  Add the sausage and beans, and simmer another 10 minutes.  Taste for salt.
Autumn Pizza
Redneck Paisana
pizza dough
olive oil
cooked vegetables (roasted brussels sprouts, roasted squash slices)
chopped herbs (sage for squash pizza)
1-2 oz fresh mozzarella di bufala
1 cup shaved parmigiano reggiano
Preheat oven to 500.  Roll out dough and fit into an olive oiled cookie sheet.  Lightly brush olive oil on dough, especially crust.  Sprinkle with herbs.  Arrange roasted vegetables on dough leaving a 1/2-1 inch border for crust.  Dot with small dices of mozzarella.  Sprinkle with shaved parmigiano, salt, pepper.  Cook for 10-12 minutes or until edges of pizza are crispy.   High heat creates crispy edges with a chewy center.

1 comment:

  1. Going to attempt to make the kale, white bean and sausage soup this weekend!